Chania (Historical Sites,Museums and Art)

Cosmopolitan Cretan Towns

Chania with its picturesque Venetian harbour is a fascinating blend of the modern and historic patchwork of Cretan life. Built on an ancient site, the old town with its narrow twisting streets, art galleries and cafés is characteristic of Kriti’s wealth of culture.

Rethymnon surrounded by beaches and crowned by the ruins of a Venetian fortezza, Rethymnon also has a contrast of historic and modern architecture, with excellent restaurants and cafés. The University of Crete is based just outside of town.

Iraklio is the capital of the island and one of the most wealthy cities in Greece. It is modern, upbeat and diverse. We are happy to share our knowledge of the town to those who might think to overlook it, there is plenty to see and do in Iraklion.

Agios Nikolaos is a hilly town surrounding the beautiful Lake Voulismeni. Agios Nikolaos has its own charm and pulse. Come and have a peek at one of the Mediterranean’s prettiest harbours.

Kastelli Kissamos on the north-west coast of Crete, is a small coastal town with an interesting history. Pirate Barbarossa was active here. Some of the most beautiful wild beaches of the island are nearby.

Paleohora on the south-west coast of Crete, is where the mountains meet the sea. From here you can beach hop, hike in the Lefka Ori, or sail to Gavdos Island. Whales and dolphins can be seen in these clean turquoise waters.

Míres in the Messara of Iraklion, in the centre of the island, is a busy market town. The Messara is a huge central valley rolling north to south in the middle of the island. It has been written about, fought over and appeared in mythology. Today Mires is a vibrant agricultural community, with a huge market every Saturday. It is close to the ancient sites of Phaistos and Gortys, and the village of Zaros.

Sitia (photo) in the east of Crete is not often visited by tourists, however travellers will find plenty of interest here in this solidly Greek town. As Lasithi has a vibrant agricultural activity, especially with the olive harvest, Sitia is wealthy town, over-looking beautiful Sitia Bay and surrounded by the wide open landscapes of Kriti.

Places of natural beauty in Chania

If the prefecture of Chania were to be characterized, perhaps the most appropriate appellation would be the "Prefecture of the Gorges" since dozens of gorges traverse the mountainous regions of Chania. Indisputably, Samaria gorge is of unparalleled beauty as well as the most renowned.
It is 16 km in length and its width ranges from 3.5 to 150 metres, with vertical cliffs which may reach a sheer 500 metres in height. In order to traverse it one needs approximately 5 to 6 hours and the gorge is open from May to October. It is a national park inside which one will find rare types of Cretan flora from the cypress and the pine tree to the dittany and the wildflower, while it is also the natural habitat of the wild goat or the Kri Kri.
Also impressive are the layered and tectonic rock formations of limestone which are discernible on its slopes.
The gorge of Agia Irene in Selino is 7.5km in length, at its most narrow points it reaches 10 metres while the height of its perpendicular walls is 500 metres. Its most distinguishable feature is its lush vegetation.
The gorge of Imbrou in Sfakia is one of the most imposing, narrow and deep gorges of Crete. Its length is 7km and its width is 2 metres in some places with the height of some perpendicular walls reaching 300 metres.
Its sides, which are 30 - 40 metres in height in some places, converge to leave a narrow opening of 2 - 3 metres giving the impression of a tunnel. The gorge of Topolia is magnificent and wild, unique due to its fantastic echo. It is 1500 metres in length with perpendicular walls that reach up to 300 metres and they boast many cave - like concavities, while its width fluctuates from 5 - 50 metres. There exist many other smaller but less well-known gorges whose beauty is comparable to that of the larger ones such as the gorge of Tripiti, Klados, Eligia around Samaria, Aradena, Katre, Asfendou, Agios Nektarios and Kallikrati in Sfakia, Theriso, which is close to Chania (the only one which can be crossed by car), Rokka and Polyrhenia in Kisamos, Boriana in Karanou and Dyctamos in Keramia, the only one which goes from west to east.
If the appellation "Prefecture of the Gorges" is not considered justifiable then perhaps the "Prefecture of the Caves" is more appropriate as it has more than 1500 land and sea caves. A very prominent one is the cave of the Elefantos, close to Plaka in Apokoronas, which has an underwater entrance and has only partially been explored up to date.
Apart from the white and red stalactites, it has become renowned worldwide for its 4 specimens of unique elephant (Elephas Chaniensis) and many of dwarf deer that lived tens of thousands of years ago. The cave of Sfakia, close to the village Asfendou, is of great historical interest since it hides rock paintings from ancient times.
Then there is the cave -precipice of "Tzani" in Omalos with a length of 2,500 metres and the group of precipices in the White mountains with the most important being the 1208 - meter deep precipice of Gorgouthakas, the largest of the Balkans, with springs, waterfalls and rivers inside.
The cave of the Bear or of The Virgin Mary Arkoudiotissa, close to the monastery of Gouverneto in Akrotiri, with the stalagmite which resembles a bear, the reservoir with the "holy water" - a result of a drip - and the small church which is dedicated to the Ypapanti are also worth a visit. So is that of Agios Ioannis the Hermit in the monastery of Gouverneto. One should also not miss out on: that of Agia Sophia in Topolia, with the church of the same name, with its 20 - metre high dome and its 70 - metre diameter whose surface is primarily covered by stalagmites, that of Agios Ioannis the Hermit in the Cave of Kisamos with the church of the same name which has large dimensions and a miracle - working stalactite and stalagmite, the Demonospilios in the slope of the gorge of Samaria in Gigilos, and many other smaller ones like that of Skourachlada in Keremia, of Samonas, of Kournas, and of Melidoni.
These karstic shapes are only one side of the coin however. The prefecture of Chania which overlooks the sea has endless beaches to offer in its 350 km of shores to satiate even the most demanding palate: from the isolated, pristine beaches to the organized cosmopolitan ones.
The beaches of Nea Chora, Chrysi Akti, Agioi Apostoloi, Agia Marina, Platanias, Gerani, Maleme, Kolympari, Kisamos, Paleochora, Fragokastalo, Kalives, Almirida, Georgioupolis and Kavros are organized and capable of offering visitors a wide variety of services, facilities and conveniences. Less crowded and more unspoilt beaches, with clean sand and crystal clear blue waters can be found by nature lovers if they distance themselves from the touristic centers.
In Phalasarna, the sandy beach which was voted the best in Europe in 2002, stretches for 3km and it can be combined with a hike to the ancient port.
Elafonisi, the small, low island (altitude 20 metres) is connected to the shore through a shallow isthmus with a depth of 0.60- 0.90 metres and a length of about 800 metres, the so called Perasma. That is where the common grave of the Austrian crew of "Imperetrice" which sunk in 1907 stands. In the neighbouring Kedrodasos one can enjoy the combination of sandy beaches and lush cedar forests.
In Sougia, its magnificent pebbly shore, its coastal caves and its pristine waters will hold you spellbound. Balo has an exotic lagoon, a sandy white beach and shallow waters to offer. A dip in Tigani, the small island- akrotiri, can be combined with a visit to the Venetian fortress of the island Imeri Gramvousa. The small, pebbly beach in Menies, next to the archaeological site of the ancient temple of Diktynna, is ideal for hiking and a haven of peace.
Finally, a place of singular beauty is considered to be that of Madara, or the infertile and barren peaks of the White Mountains. At an altitude of more than 1000 metres, it presents an absolute challenge for the hiker. It has rocky landscapes, with very little, low, bushy vegetation, quite a few wildflowers and a view that will leave you speechless.
Also unique for the island is the lake of Kournas, next to the village of the same name, close to the border of the prefecture of Rethymno.
It is at an altitude of 20 metres above the surface of the sea and has a circumference of 3.5 km with its deepest point being 23 metres. Osiers and Myrtle trees envelope the lake and the precipitous mountains that surround it are mirrored in its calm waters creating the illusion that it is deeper than it actually is. It is this phenomenon that is responsible for the legend that it is "bottomless".

Source: www.chaniacrete.gr

History of the town of Chania

The town of Chania is built, according to archaeological searches, on the ruins of a big ancient town. The up to now evidence leads us to the ancient Kydonia that, according to Diodoros Sikeliotes, was founded by Minos and was one of the three big towns of Crete. Its name is read KY-DO-NI-JA on a Knossos tablet of Linear B Scripture.

The Kasteli Hill, east of the port, owing to the fact that it was adjacent to the sea, was an ideal position for prehistorical settlements. Architectural remains that have survived and used to belong to big buildings comes from the early Minoan period (1900 – 2200 B.C.). The settlements developed and evolved into an important center in the first middle-minoan period (2000 – 1580 B.C.), whereupon a Minoan colony was founded, beyond the Kasteli Hill. In 1450 B.C. it was destroyed by a big fire. With the Greek – Swedish excavations, that began in 1967, were found buildings of this period with many rooms, several had floors paved with flagstones, second storey and monumental entrances looking on narrow streets. About 100 clay tablets with symbols of the Minoan Linear A Scripture, which have been found, indicate possible existence of a palace. After the catastrophe of 1450 B.C., the town was rebuilt and continued to exist until the end of the Minoan years (1100 B.C.) not without intermittent minor catastrophes.

In the post-minoan III period (1400 – 1100 B.C.) the town reaches very high prosperity. Its products are reknown in Knossos, in Eastern Crete, in Thera, even in Cyprus. Its cemetery expands considerably all around the settlement. Grave jars, subterranean vaulted graves carved in rock were discovered daily on the eastern, northeastern section of the modern city.

During the first centuries of the 1st millennium e.e., in the geometric and archaic years, architectural remains have not been found till now, only abundant ceramics, that indicates that the town continued its life even during that period. Part of a frieze, now in the museum of Chania, depicts the façade of a temple with the statue of the Goddess surrounded by archers. Very few finds suggest the existence of the town during the classical period (5th – 4th century B.C.). However this period must have been an era of prosperity for the area, according to the testimonies of ancient writers. The famous sculptor Krissilas, Phidias pupil, comes from Kydonia of the classical period. As far as the Hellenistic period is concerned (end of the 4th century B.C. – 69 B.C.) there is enough evidence about the flourishing of the town.

Houses with mosaic floors have been found in several parts of the town, that by the time had expanded until beyond the hill of Kasteli. Remarkable graves with rich finds of this period have survived. In 69 B.C., the Romans declared war against Kydonia, and sent Consul Cointus Concillius Metellus to seize it. The people of Kydonia, under the leadership of Lasthenes and Pavares, fought the Romans heroically, but eventually they were defeated. The town continued its life, and flourished during the Roman period. The town of Kydonia continued to flourish and in the early Byzantine period starts 324 – 823 A.D. as well.

Christianity was spreading from the 1st century, and Kydonia was chosen as “Seat of Bishop” it is often mentioned in Records of Councils and Ecclesiastical “Minutes” till the 9th century A.D. As from that period we have very few archaeological indications, which are confined to a few tomb inscriptions from the church of St. John and from the area of today’s orphanage, indicating that they were extended cemeteries of the town.

The period 821 – 961 A.D. is a dark period for Kydonia. The town falls into the hands of the Arabs after a siege. Historical sources of this period are not very clear and the archaeological indications have not been located at all. From the Legend (biography of Saints) of St Nicholas the Confessor (abbot of the monastery Stoudiou and well-known apologist of icons) who comes from Kydonia we learn that his fatherland was rich and prosperous and the memory of its glorious past is indelible. The events of the Arab attack are described in dark colours. The Arabs are ousted by the Byzantines in 961 A.D., but the town maintains its strategic significance. The Byzantines build a fortress that rests in many parts on the ancient walls, with the building materials of ancient Kydonia.

The town however begins to decline. From this period, only a few parts of the walls in Kasteli survive. In the first half of the 13th century, the Venetians endeavour to establish their sovereignity in the area of Chania. After the siege of Constantinople by the Latins (1204 A.D.), Crete is ceded to Bonifatio Marques Momferato, from whom the Venetians bought the island. Bonifatio did not have time to seize Crete before its sale to the Venetians, because the Genovian Count of Malta, Erico Piscatori, rushed and seized Chania and fortified the Acropolis of Kydonia. After the purchase by the Venetians, the latter characterized Piscatori as a pirate and after a tenacious war they exhiled him from the island. The possession, however, of the island by the Venetians did not occur immediately, but only after hard fights against the indigenous population, particularly in the borough of Chania.

The borough of Chania was divided into 90 “Cavaleries”, that were given to the Venetian colonists, with the specific obligation to rebuild the town of Chania. It is they who repair the walls of Kasteli, and organize the planning of the town within its boundaries. The public buildings develop along the central road Corso (today’s Kanevaro Street) that crosses Kasteli. Chania develops into the second twon of the “Kingdom of Crete” and is the Seat of “Rector” and latin Bishop. The town and its port becomes the center of a wealthy agricultural area with economical and political connections with Venice. In the middle of the 16th century, the town is fortified once more, an operation that was based on designs by the Veronese mechanic Michele Sammichelli, with contemporary walls and trence. The fortification was enhanced with fortresses on the islets Thodorou, Souda and Gramvussa. Within the new boundaries, the new town-planning network develops, that remains until today.

Big public buildings were erected – temples, storerooms, shipyards – a lot of which are still remaining. The architectural character of Chania is mainly Western, with predominant the element of Venetian mannerism and some Flemish influences. Quite a few of the buildings of that period are maintained with many subsequent alterations. In August 1645, the Turks seized Chania and the town was declared as the Seat of the Turkish pasha, while an Orthodox bishop of Kydonia was settled in, with the temple of St Anargiri as his Seat. The Catholic churches are turned into mosques while new mosques are also built. The conquerors are strongly influenced by the local architectural tradition, adding only certain functional and artistic elements.
The town maintains the same structure, while the buildings assume some oriental character (wooden kiosks, wooden walls, tiled roofs, latticed windows, wide range of colours and cavities). In 1821, before the start of revolution, the population of Chania came to 10.600 inhabitants, 8.000 of them were Turks and 2.600 Christians, while in 1881 – last official census of the inhabitants of Crete during the Turkish domination – Chania had 13.812 inhabitants. 9.469 of them were Turks, 3.477 Christian Orthodox, 159 Catholics, 5 Protestants, 4 Armenians and 485 Jews. The town of Chania was divided into 9 neighbourhoods, that constituted electoral sections.

The neighbourhood of Tophana, of Yousouf Pasha, of Arab Tzamissi of Kasteli of Moussa Pasha, of Agha Djejire Kolou, Houghiar Tzamissi (Splantzia), Koum Kapissi and Topalti. Since the siege of Chania (1645) till 1830 Crete was governed by three Pashas, whose headquarters were in Chania, Rethymnon and Heraklion. From 1830 during Giritli Mustapha Pasha’s administration and till the end of the Turkish occupation, Crete was governed by a General Administrator (Vali) whose seat was in Chania. From 1645 till 1830, Chania had been governed by 196 Pashas. From 1830 and until the end of 1897, Chania and the whole of Crete had been governed by 37 Pashas and only 7 of them were Christians. Chania became officially the capital of Crete in 1849. In the middle of the 19th century, Chania became the headquarters of Administration, and after the revolution of 1847 the capital of the autonomous Cretan State.

By then, the town assumes a multinational character with the presence of Foreign Leagues, a fact with many consequences on the economical, social and cultural life. The architectural style changes according to the models of the West; houses and mansions are built inside the walls as well as outside, on the outskirts of the town. A creative spirit spreads from Chania to the whole of Crete, laying foundations of order, security and prosperity. A clamorous crowd of Turkish Cretans, Orthodox indigenous Cretans, Beduins, Jews and Europeans was giving Chania a special colour. The Cretan people however never stopped wishing and fighting for the unification of Crete with Greece. The yearning dream came true on the 1st December 1913 in the presence of King Constantine and the leader of the revolution of Therisso (1905) Eleftherios Venizelos.

During the Second World War violent battles took place on the outskirts of the town till the final fall of Chania, after a siege of 10 days. Chania gets bombed and the old town is completely destroyed. During the years of the occupation a strong resistence was organized against the conquerors, and this fact has made Chania one of the centers of organized resistance in Greece.

Geography of Crete

Location and Size
Crete lies at the point where the continents of Europe, Asia and Africa meet. It is the fifth largest island in the Mediterranean with an area of 8,335 square kilometers. It has an elongated shape with an east-west axis and a length of 257km and a maximum width of 60km. However, in the area of Ierapetra, Crete is only 12km wide.
Prefectures and Provinces
Crete is divided into four prefectures (nomos). From west to east they are: Chania, Rethimnon, Iraklion and Lassithi. Each one of the prefectures is subdivided into provinces (eparchies). The Nomos Chanion is subdivided into Kydonia, Apokoronas, Sfakia, Kissamos and Selino. The Nomos Rethimnou is subdivided into Rethimnon, Milopotamos, Amari and Agios Vasilios. The Nomos Irakliou is subdivided into Malevizi, Temenos, Pediada, Pirgiotisa, Kainourio, Monofatsi and Vianos. The Nomos Lassithiou is subdivided into Mirabelo, Lassithi, Ierapetra and Sitia. Chania Prefecture
The prefecture (nomos) of Chania covers the western section of the island. It has an area of 2,376 square km. Chania is subdivided into five provinces (eparhies): Kydonia, Kissamos, Apokoronas, Selino, and Sfakia. The main cities of the prefecture are Chania, the capital, and Kastelli in Kissamos. The main towns are Paleohora and Kandanos in Selino, and Hora Sfakion in Sfakia.
The prefecture of Chania offers a wide variety of tourist services and activities of all classes and types. The city of Chania has also maintained characteristics of the Venetian era. The Lefka Ori rise behind Chania and drop to the Libyan Sea in Sfakia and contain many gorges and canyons for the nature or hiking enthusiast. The sandy beaches and clear waters of Falasarna, Paleohora and Georgioupolis offer pleasant swims. The Minoan, Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Turkish archaeological sites attract those seeking cultural and historical information.
The province of Kissamos in the northwest of the prefecture of Chania lies between the two peninsulas of western Crete. It extends west to the sea and south to Elafonisi Island. Kastelli is the main city of this area. The city has a variety of tourist services. On the coastal road from Kastelli to Elafonisi Island you can see the wild beauty of western Crete. The beaches at Elafonisi, Falasarna, and Gramvousa are among the finest in Crete. The many Byzantine and Venetian churches, as well as the ancient cities of Polirinia and Falasarna, may be of interest to tourists. The peninsulas of Gramvousa and Spatha are mostly inaccessible by car. Hikers can enjoy some parts.
The province of Sfakia occupies the southeast area of the prefecture of Chania. The Lefka Ori cover most of the area. The province includes the plateaus of Krapi, Askifou, Niatos, Anopolis, Aradena, and Kalikratis. Sfakia has the highest peaks of the Lefka Ori: Pahnes (2,450m); Kastro (2,218m), and Troharis (2,409m). This wild terrain is one of the most impressive in Crete. The visitor may enjoy the panoramic view going from Chania to Sfakia by road. Very impressive also is the Samaria Gorge excursion and the subsequent boat trip to Hora Sfakion.
There are many interesting things for a visitor in the area of Sfakia. The beaches near Loutro, Agia Roumeli, and Frangokastello offer the clear waters of the Libyan Sea. The Byzantine churches of Agios Pavlos (in Agia Roumeli), Michael Archangelos (Aradena), Agii Apostoli (Hora Sfakion), and the Panagia Thymiani and Agios Georgios (Komitades) are of cultural interest. The ravines and gorges through Samaria, Aradena, Imbros, and Kalikratis afford excellent hiking opportunities. The mountain hike to the refuge and plateau at Niatos, 1,500 metres above Askifou, may interest the visitor. With more than 40 peaks above 2,000 metres, the Lefka Ori offer numerous superb hiking possibilities.
The province of Selino is in the southwest part of Crete. It borders the Libyan Sea and the south side of the Lefka Ori. The two major towns are the capital, Kandanos, and Paleohora on the south coast. The name of Selino is derived from the Venetian castle, Selino, in Paleohora. Near Kandanos there are many interesting Byzantine churches.
Rethymno Prefecture
Rethimnon is one of the four prefectures (nomos) of Crete. It lies between the prefecture of Iraklion and the prefecture of Chania, and consists of four provinces (eparhies): Rethimnon, Milopotamos, Amari, and Agios Vasilios. The province of Rethimnon is in the northwestern part of the prefecture. Milopotamos is on the eastern side, bordering the prefecture of Iraklion. Amari is in the uplands, bordering the other three provinces, and Agios Vasilios is Rethimnon's province on the Libyan Sea. The main cities of the Nomos are Rethimnon, Agia Galini, Anogia, Amari.
These two provinces of Rethimnon and Milopotamos occupy all the area on the north coast of the prefecture of Rethimnon. The entire area is easily reached from the city of Rethimnon. The roads in the provinces are good, usually paved, but narrow and winding. The excursions in this area go east and west along the picturesque Old Road between Rethimnon and Chania and Rethimnon and Iraklion. The construction of the National Road isolated these small villages in the 70s but this adds to their attraction. Hidden among these villages are Minoan sanctuaries, cemeteries, villas, and palaces.
There are many Byzantine churches in the prefecture of Rethimnon. Some of the later churches have interesting frescoes such as the Panagia Kardiotissa in Miriokefala. The church in Moni Arkadiou is one of the finest examples of Venetian influence on the architecture of the time and the monastery a symbol of the love of and sacrifice for freedom. There are many caves where objects from Neolithic times have been found. More recently, the Cretans used these caves during the Turkish and German occupations.
Rethimnon is an area of traditional villages (Anogia), Byzantine churches, and ancient sites. The Oropedio Nida, one of the most beautiful and historic plateaus in Crete, is high in the Psiloritis Mountains. The Ideon Andron Cave in Nida is reputed to be the birthplace of Zeus or the place where Zeus was raised, according to others.
The province of Agios Vasilios is one of four in the prefecture of Rethimnon. It stretches west, from the prefecture of Chania, south along all the coast of Rethimnon to the prefecture of Iraklion. The eastern portion of the province contains the Kedros mountain range with the highest peak at 1,777 metres above sea level. The easiest and shortest road from Rethimnon to southern Crete is through Agios Vasilios. In the area there are ravines, Byzantine churches and pleasant villages that are relatively unaffected by the tourist population moving through them. There are also spectacular views of the bay of Plakias and southern Crete from the road. The prefecture of Iraklion is the largest in area, has the greatest population and the highest per capita income of Crete. There are seven provinces (eparhies) in this prefecture: Malevizi, Temenos, and Pediada on the north coast and Pirgiotisa, Kainourio, Monofatsi, and Viannos in the centre and on the south coast. The main cities are Timbaki, Ano Viannos, Matala, and Mires. The northwestern area of the prefecture of Iraklion is comprised of the three provinces of Malevizi, Temenos, and Pediada. The main city is Iraklion. This area is the largest of grape - producing areas of Crete and its main products are sultana raisins, Malevizi (Malmsey) wine, and table grapes (Rosaki). In these valleys Sir Arthur Evans, the British archaeologist, excavated the Minoan Palace of Knossos, the remains of a great civilization. A low mountain range rises in the middle of the prefecture and descends into the Mesara Plain. These fertile plains have been cultivated for thousands of years and have important Minoan, Greek, and Roman archaeological sites -- Festos, Agia Triada, and Gortyn are the major ones. The imposing peak of Psiloritis, 2,456 metres above sea level, is visible from almost all points of the prefecture of Iraklion. It is especially impressive during the winter months when it is snow-capped.
The Amari Valley, southeast of Rethimnon runs from north to south Crete for 25km. The valley is 400 - 500 metres above sea level. The peak of Psiloritis (2,545 metres above sea level) is on the east and Kedros (1,777 metres above sea level) is on the west. It is a major north - south pass and has seen a great deal of action throughout history. The Amari Valley is a fertile valley where many varieties of fruit trees are grown and a great number of well - preserved Byzantine churches may be seen.
Iraklio Prefecture
The prefecture of Iraklion is the largest in area, has the greatest population and the highest per capita income of Crete. There are seven provinces (eparhies) in this prefecture: Malevizi, Temenos, and Pediada on the north coast and Pirgiotisa, Kainourio, Monofatsi, and Viannos in the centre and on the south coast. The main cities are Timbaki, Ano Viannos, Matala, and Mires.
The northwestern area of the prefecture of Iraklion is comprised of the three provinces of Malevizi, Temenos, and Pediada. The main city is Iraklion. This area is the largest of grape - producing areas of Crete and its main products are sultana raisins, Malevizi (Malmsey) wine, and table grapes (Rosaki). In these valleys Sir Arthur Evans, the British archaeologist, excavated the Minoan Palace of Knossos, the remains of a great civilization.
A low mountain range rises in the middle of the prefecture and descends into the Mesara Plain. These fertile plains have been cultivated for thousands of years and have important Minoan, Greek, and Roman archaeological sites -- Festos, Agia Triada, and Gortyn are the major ones. The imposing peak of Psiloritis, 2,456 metres above sea level, is visible from almost all points of the prefecture of Iraklion. It is especially impressive during the winter months when it is snow-capped.
The prefecture of Iraklion has many cultural and historical features to offer the visitor. The finest collection of Minoan artefacts in the world and the sites of one of history's greatest civilizations may be of interest as well as the numerous Byzantine churches and Venetian castles and fountains.
The historical aspects combine with the scenic landscapes of mountains, valleys, and sea to make this a beautiful and fascinating area. The beaches of Agia Pelagia and Limin Hersonisou on the north coast and Matala and Kali Limenes on the south coast will attract the visitor with their warm, clear seas. There are many fine restaurants and tavernas offering Cretan specialities throughout the area.
The eastern part of the Iraklion prefecture has some major resorts near the sea (Limin Hersonisou), some major archaeological sites (Malia), and many important Byzantine churches.
The southern area of the prefecture of Iraklion includes the four provinces of Pirgiotisa, Kainourio, Monofatsi, and Viannos. The most prominent physical feature here is the Pediada Mesaras. It stretches east from Timbaki to Ano Viannos. The plain is between the low mountain ranges of the south and north. The main products of Mesara are cereals, olives, and fruits. and cultivation goes on year-round, aided by the use of hothouses to increase productivity.
Lassithi Prefecture
The prefecture of Lassithi covers the eastern end of the island. The mountain range in this area is the Dikte. Its tallest peak is Mount Dikte, 2,148 metres above sea level. The prefecture has four provinces: Mirabelo, Lassithi, Ierapetra, and Sitia. The major cities are Agios Nikolaos, Ierapetra, and Sitia. The earliest settlements in Crete are in this prefecture, including the palaces of Zakros, Praisos, Mochlos, Vasiliki, and Gournia. An important early Greek city, Lato, is near Kritsa. The fine Archaeological Museums of Agios Nikolaos and Sitia display some of the artefacts from these and other excavations.
According to legend, the Dikteon Andron Cave, on the Lassithi Plateau, was the birthplace of Zeus. The area around Agios Nikolaos is not only the most developed area for tourism but one of the most interesting. The church of the Panagia Kera near Kritsa contains some of the best-preserved Byzantine frescoes in Crete. Elounda has one of the strongest Venetian forts built on Crete. The area of Sitia is full of Byzantine churches and Venetian villas, as well as ancient Minoan sites. The famous Toplou Monastery has a museum displaying its well-known icon collection. The area also has very good beaches with many coves between Ierapetra and the Kapsa Monastery that offer excellent swimming. The area of Vai has a unique palm grove that attracts many people.
Ierapetra is one of the four provinces of Lassithi. Its capital is the city of Ierapetra. The province of Ierapetra has many good examples of Byzantine churches with frescoes in them There are two monasteries of note, Exakousti Monastery and Faneromeni Monastery. East of Ierapetra there are many fine beaches in the Makrigialos Bay.
Sitia is the largest province of Lassithi in area and population. Its capital is the city of Sitia. The mountains are lower then in other parts of the island, but have a distinctive and varied landscape. The earliest Minoan settlements are here at Mochlos, Palaikastro, and the Minoan palace of Zakros. The Kilada ton Nekron (Valley of the Dead) in Zakros and the Hellenistic site of Itanos near Vai are also of interest. There are many Byzantine churches in the area. Evidence of the Venetian era may be seen in the villages of Etia and Handras. The monastery of secluded Kapsa offers visitors a view of monastic life; there is much to see and do in this province.

The People and the Place (Part II)

Due to its narrow width, the island of Crete has view rivers, which begin from its central, mountains region and end at the Libyan and the Cretan Seas. Most of them have little water during the winter months, and they dry up in the summer. The biggest rivers on the island are the Geropotamos and the Anapodiaris, in the Messara area, the Tyflos and the Kolenis in the valley of Chania, the Kilaris, the Mega Potamos and the Kourtaliotis, at the delta of which we find an area of exquisite beauty. The island does not have big lakes as well, except for some very small ones as well as the lake of Koyurna in the Apokoronou area. There also exists the small but picturesque harbour-side lake of Voulismeni, next to the port of Aghios Nikolaos.

A great variety of agricultural products is produced in the numerous valleys found on the island of Crete. The lowlands of the island spread along its north side, where we find the valleys of Kastellion Kisamou, of Kydonia, of Aghia, of Georgioupolis, of Rethymnon, of Chania, of Malia, of Ierapetra as well as the Mesara Valley, known since antiquity for the bounteous production of cereals. Due to the yielding climate of the island, agriculture is greatly developed and during the last few years big greenhouse cultivations were created here, from where all kinds of products are shipped to the rest of Greece. Among other products, Crete is famous for its olives - from which the high quality cretan oil is produced - the grape vines, the groceries, the oranges, lemons and other products of the kind, as well as for the production of "tropical" fruits, such as bananas, avocadoes and kiwi, as well as thwe famous cretan raisins, known by the name of Soultanina. In the mountains areas, there is bounteous production of of mountain tea, chestnuts, walnuts and other products. On the island there is also production - in great quantities - of high quality honey and cheeses, such as the cretan anthotyro, the mizithra and the graviera, while local fishermen sell all kinds of fish and sea food.
The climate in Crete can be described as typical Mediterranea. Summer is hot and dry with sparce clouds and lots of sunshine. Winter is mild, although in certain areas there may be snow and temperature may drop to unusually low levels.
FLORA
Crete is known for the wide variety of its natural flora. It is estimated that the island is home to 2,000 different kinds of plants, many of which only grow on Cretan land, such as the famous evergreen, Platanus orientalis. Along the Cretan land spread green areas of unique natural beauty. One can admire beautiful wildflowers, anemones, daffodils, osiers and the wild ranunculus. On the mountain slopes grow cypress-, plane-, chestnut-, and oak-trees. The greatest variety of rare plants grows in the gorges, especially in the famous Samaria gorge, which is a known National Park. Here, one comes across rare plants, like the Ebenus cretica, Campanula pelviformis, Gladolius italicus, Linum arboreum, Staechelina arborea, Cyclamen creticum, Chrysanthemum coronarium, Cistus villosuscreticus and Petromarcula pinnata. In the rest of the island varieties such as Tulipa bakeri, Anchusa caespitosa, Erysinum raulinu, Dianthus juniperinus, Dianthus pulviniformis, Asperula idaea and Scabiosa minoana can be found. Finally, of singular natural beauty is the palm-forest of Vai, where Phoenix theophrastu grows, a variety unique to this part of Greece.
FAUNA
Crete is well known for the cretan goat, otherwise called "kri - kri" which is found mainly in the Gorge of Samaria. The archaeological excavations, which have brouth to light many a wall paintings of the "kri - kri", testify to the view that this animal was worshiped on the island during antiquity. Its rareness is one of the reasons that led to the Gorge of Samaria becoming a national park. However, "kri - kri" have been spotted in the nearby islands of Dia, Theodoros and Aghioi Pantes. From the Cretan countryside, there could not been absent animals less rare, which are found in many parts of Greece. Among them, the rabbit, the wild cat or fourogatos and a unique kind of mouse. Among the birds, in the Cretan mountains we distinguish the golden eagle and the eagle Gyps Fulvus, while there are many kinds of traveling birds which make a stop on the island as they travel to the south.

The People and the Place (Part I)

The Cretans are known for their generosity of spirit. They like strangers, they are pleasant, graceful and hospitable. As their glorious and turbulent history indicates, they are driven by a powerful desire for freedom and independence, which is reflected in every expression of their daily life. Their intense character, combined with a strong sense of family loyalty, often leads them to actions that may be viewed as extreme by outsiders. The ultimate expression of this behaviour is the famous "vendetta," where the rivalry between different families can continue for generations on end. The Cretans keep the local customs and traditions alive. Many still wear the traditional costumes, sing traditional Cretan songs and dance the local dances. Their income derives from agriculture, stock- breeding, commerce and in recent years from tourism, which has developed quite a bit. Cretan girls make beautiful folk-art objects, like ceramics, embroideries and woven fabrics, which can be purchased at most shops on the island.

Found in the crossroads of of three continents, Crete is surrounded be the Lybian Sea, the Cretan Seam the Karpatian Sea and the Myrtoon Sea. Its geostrategic poistions is of great importance, a fact explaining its adventurous history. The shape of the island is narrow but long, with a a length of 260 km. and width of 60 km. and just 12 km. in its most narrow part, which is located in the area of folk-art. Crete is the biggest among the greek islands, with a total area of 8,303 square km., including the reas of the little islands of Dia and Gavdos. The latter represents the southernmost point of Greece. Its extensive beaches - of great variety of terrain - have a total length of 1,064.4 km. The population of the island amounts up to about 500.000 residents, who live mainly off agriculture, animal husbandry and as of lately off tourism. Administratively, the island is divided into four Counties. The County of Chania, with Chania as its capital City, the County of Rethymon with thw homonemous capital city, the County of Lasithi, with Aghios Nikolaos as its capital, and the County of Heraklion, with its capital, the city of Heraklion being the largest city on the island with about 100.000 inhabitants.
CAVES
In the mountains of Crete there have been formed many caves, owing to the terrain of the island. Archaelogical and paleohistoric findings testify to the fact that most of these caves were used during the prehistoric era as sites of worship and religious observances. Among those caves, we distinguish the Dikteo Andro and the Ideo Andro, connected with many local legends, the Caves of Melidoniou Apokoronou, of Sendoni Rethymnou, of Ilithieas, the Cave of Aghios Ioannis the Hermit and thew Caves of Omalos Chanion.
COASTS
The coastline of Crete spans an area of 1,046.4 km and is adorned by capes, bays, picturesque harbours, gulfs, steep cliffs and lovely sandy beaches. The southern coast is less developed as far as tourism goes, thus more peaceful and secluded. The northern coast, though rougher, tends to get more crowded.
GORGES
Some of the most characteristic natural beauties of the cretan scenery consist of the famous cretan gorges which begin at the mountainous areas of the island and end to the sea. The green gorges a abound with rare species of flora and fauna which are protected by strict rules, as they are unique throughout Greece. Among them, one can admire rare species of cypress-trees, platans, pine-trees and wildflowers. The most famous and significant gorge of Crete is the infamous gorge of Samaria, which impresses with its size and unique natural beauty, while on its slopes, one can adire the famous wildgoat of Crete which is found nowhere else in Greece. other significant gorges are the gorges of Kourtaliotis river, of Nimbros and Tipoliano.
PLATEAUS
The mountainous areas of Crete form many plateaux. Some of them are very fertile with abundant water and are systematically used to cultivate garden produce and fruit. Others are used for pasturing. Among the better known ones are the Plateau of Lassithi on mountain Dikta, at a 900 m altitude, the very popular Omalos Plateau, on Lefka Ori (700 m altitude), made famous in folk songs, Plateau of Askifou and, finally, the plateau of Nida, on Psiloritis mountain, (1,400 m altitude).
The mountains of Crete present a wide variety of geological formations, valleys, gorges, caves and plateaux. They are part of the Dinarotauric Arrow, which begins at the Dinaric Alps. The western side of Crete includes Lefka Ori (White Mountains), or Madares, with Pachnes being the highest peak at 2,453 m. The central part of the island is dominated by Psiloritis, or Ida mountain, Crete’s tallest, Timios Stavros (2,456 m) being the highest peak. In the eastern part of island one can admire Dikta, or Lassithiotika (2,148 m). Apart from these mountain chains there are other, less high ranges, such as Kedros (1,777 m), the ridge of Kouloukonas alias Talea Ori (as it was known in the ancient years), mount Kofinas (1,231 m) and the Sitia mountains where the tallest peaks are 1,320 m and 1,476 m high. The Cretan mountains are for the most part covered with forests. In the recent years, severe damage has been caused by fire and the intensive timber trade and the forest density has been significantly reduced. Still, Roura Forest on mount Ida and Selekano Forest on mount Dikta, are well preserved. Yet, the most beautiful forest on the island is the famous palm-forest of Vai, where the palm-trees reach the beach giving a tropical touch and unique beauty to the area.

Crete: The island of the Gods

Crowning the southern-most part of the Aegean, Crete has been standing there for centuries, proud bearer of its past; a past that blends myth and historical fact, power and demise, leadership and defeat, but never subjugation, never weakness. Its terrain unpredictable... filled with mountain ranges, intense and defying, serene plateaus - blessed with the rich vegetation that only gods could bestow on this island - interspersed with wide expanses of serene valleys and gentle hills, that meet the waters of the sea, some times with fierce determination, others with quiet resolve.

The island of King Minos and a civilization that left its mark on the world, faced the voracious appetite of conquerors from mainland Greece, Rome, Byzantium, the Ottoman Empire, the Venetians, was raided by pirates and invaded by armies who cruised the Mediterranean in search of riches and power.

The proof of this in every corner of the land; in Chania, Rethymno , Iraklio, Lassithi. Finds of long-forgotten civilizations, castles with thick walls and deep moats, monasteries and churches, standing along-side minarets and mosques, they are all testaments to the turbulent past of this corner of Greece. And the people!!!... Proud as the mountains, strong as the waves that beat upon its shores, yet gentle and generous, bearers of age-old traditions and culture.

This is the birthplace of gods and heroes, divine artists and inspired politicians: Zeus and Minos, El Greco, Kornaros, Kazatzakis, Venizelos ... From myth, to antiquity, to renaissance, to modern Greek history, figures who contributed of themselves to what today makes up Crete, Greece and to some extend Western civilization.