Much fanciful nonsense has been written suggesting that the distinctiveness of the Sfakian dialect of Greek is due to the preservation in the region of 'pure' Dorian Greek as this was brought to Crete 3000 years ago. It is certainly true that the dialect of the Sfakia region is in a number of ways different from the other dialects of Crete. But the reality is that its distinctiveness is due to the relative isolation of the area in much more recent times.
The best known of all Cretan dialect features is that the consonants k, g, x (ch) and gh are pronounced like English ch, j, sh and zh before the vowels i and e. For example, ke 'and' is che, anagi 'need' is anaji, maxeri 'knife' is masheri, and Giorgho is Zhorgho. You may well hear these pronunciations in Chora Sfakion, but it is a feature which is absent from many of the villages of the Sfakia region.
The most recognisable Sfakian feature, however, concerns the pronunciation of L. Before the vowels i and e this is pronounced more or less as in other varieties of Greek. Before the vowels a, o, and u, however, a very different sound occurs which is very similar indeed to the pronunciation of r in American English, so that kalá 'well' sounds like 'kará'. Interestingly, in the village of Chora Sfakion, this feature is now almost entirely confined to the speech of men.
Visitors to Sfakia who know some Greek may notice a number of words which are typical of the southern islands generally, or of Crete, or of western Crete, or of Sfakia itself. These include: Sfakian English Greek inda? = what? = ti? jada? = why? = jatí? etsá = thus = étsi edhá = now = tóra epá = here = edhó ekiá = over there = ekí péra práma = nothing = típota kopéli = boy = aghóri kopélia = boys kopeliá = girl = korítsi kopeliés = girls trozós = crazy = trellós opsés = yesterday = xtes ghlakó = I run = tréxo katéo = I know = kséro thoró = I see = vlépo
A number of words have a rather different pronunciation from those you might have learned in phrase books: oi = no = óxi áne = if = án oúla = everything = óla ókso = outside = ékso mikiós = small = mikrós pothéno = I die = pethéno símero = today = símera
There are some grammatical differences also. Past tense verb forms tend to have the e- prefix in all forms: edhoúlepsa = I worked = dhoúlepsa
And it is possible to place a pronoun object after the verb rather than before it: thoró se = I see you = se vlépo
All the Sfakia people who come into contact with tourists can switch very easily between Sfakian dialect and Standard Greek, as well as English and maybe German and French too. They remain, however, very proud of their local dialect.
An article written exclusively for sfakia-crete.com Prof. Peter Trudgill Chair of English Linguistics University of Fribourg Switzerland
The seaside of village is located at a distance of about 74 km. south of Chania, at the end of Cape Mouri. It is believed that this was the site of the ancient city of Finikas, and was the port of ancient Anopolis. Later, it became the winter time port of the town of Sfakia, due to the fact that the enclosed bay and the small island in its entrance create a natural harbor where ships can be safe even at very bad weather conditions. The only access is by boat or as you wish, by foot !
Loutro is a place for those people who want something different.
For example there are no big hotels with swimming pools. There are no overcrowded streets, restaurants and beaches, there are no cars!!. A small picturesque fishing village in south west Crete, not yet spoilt by mass tourism. Discover the beautiful beaches like glyka nera ( sweet water ),timios stavros, pervolaki, marmara, (the most are naturist beach) and enjoy the sun, sea and peaceful tranquility. Here you will find the rest and peace you are looking for and if you want there are lots of things to do !
Enjoy walking in the scenic, unspoilt mountain countryside with its valleys and gorges. of course you never think about the weather forecast , the weather is almost always warm and sunny. The great high mountains on the north side of the village give a big protection during the seasons. The people are friendly and hospitable and will always be there for you.
Loutro is a seaside resort on the south coast of Chania Prefecture (south-western Crete). It is only a few kilometres from Chora Sfakion, lying in the embrace of a cliff which towers 600 metres above the village. Loutro is a unique spot in Crete for many reasons:
its white buildings with blue windows are reminiscent of the Cyclades and are unique in Crete.
there is no road to Loutro. You can only go there by scheduled boat service (20 minutes from Sfakia) or on foot.
there is no road in Loutro itself, no cars and no motorbikes. Actually, there is one car, which is used to transfer supplies from the boat to a hotel.
all the houses are just a few metres from the water’s edge.
the sea is always calm and meltemia (northeasterlies) are unknow
Loutro, history Loutro has its own history stretching back thousands of years. It was originally a harbour of Anopolis high above Loutro. The town established on the site of modern-day Loutro was known as Phoenix, a place-name preserved in the neighbouring village of Phoenix. Phoenix flourished during the Hellenistic and Roman periods, while it later became a lair of Saracen corsairs and slavers. This situation changed when the Venetians arrived in Crete. They drove out the pirates and fortified Loutro with a small fortress whose ruins are still visible today.
After the Venetians came the Turks, whose presence here, as well as the importance of the natural harbour of Loutro, is demonstrated by the Turkish fort above the village. The Turks built it after the 1866 uprising in an attempt to control the area and the harbour of Loutro which the Cretans were using as a base in their frequent revolts. Loutro harbour was used during the Dasakaloyannis rebellion of 1770 and the 1821 uprising was declared in Crete at Loutro.
Loutro, today Today Loutro is full of rooms and apartments for rent, all with a view of the calm bay with its islet and the lighthouse at its entrance. Dozens of boats and speedboats visit the harbour each day, the only means of communication with the surrounding areas.
All the houses in Loutro are built around the small beach and the jetty where the boat from Sfakia and Agia Roumeli moors. You rarely need to walk more than a few yards from your hotel to the taverna or the beach. You will gradually feel the peace and lazy atmosphere of the place affecting you, making you wonder how you could possibly have lived so long in the busy, stressful city. Expensive clothes, cars and other consumer goods lose their meaning here, since all you need is a pair of flip-flops for the beach, shorts and a T-shirt, your bathers and suncream. Anything else seems completely unnecessary in Loutro. Loutro, beaches, sightseeing and activities
You can spend the day on Loutro beach swimming in the cool waters of the bay, drinking coffee and beer, canoeing or walking as far as the Venetian and Turkish fortresses.
If you feel in need of something more adventurous, take a 30-minute walk to neighbouring Phoenix for a coffee and a dip on its tiny beach. If you continue, after Phoenix you’ll come to Marmara beach and the exit of Aradena Gorge. At Marmara there is a small taverna and the omnipresent beach umbrellas.
You can also visit Marmara beach (to the west) and the beach of Glyka Nera to the east, on the boat that leaves Loutro at 11 every morning and returns in the afternoon. You can walk to Glyka Nera in an hour and a bit, along the narrow footpath that starts just behind the Kri-Kri taverna in Loutro and joins the road to Sfakia and Anopolis. If you suffer from fear of heights and vertigo, though, it is best avoided.
Glyka Nera beach (Sweet Water) is one of the loveliest beaches in Crete, with no umbrellas or other facilities but with clear blue-green waters in which to cool off after the hot sun. The sea here is quite cold, due to the icy mountain water that rises in the sea and the sand. This water is clean and perfectly drinkable. On the beach you’ll find a small canteen serving refreshments and fast food. Unfortunately there is no shade anywhere on the beach, but you can rent an umbrella from the canteen. Avoid sitting too close to the cliff because of the risk of rockfalls. Finally, be aware that the beach is popular with nudists, so if you object to the practice you had better avoid the spot.
Another itinerary for determined hikers is the path that ascends from Loutro to Anopoli. You climb up to about 700 metres above sea level, with the stunning view unfolding before you all the way. At the end of the path is the church of Agia Ekaterini (St Catherine) and a small Venetian fort. Enjoy the panoramic view with the Sea of Libya spread at your feet. In the distance you can make out the islands of Gavdos and Gavdopoula, the southernmost border of Europe. If you go on past the church you come to the village of Anopoli, birthplace of the hero Daskaloyiannis who led a major rebellion against the Turks in 1770. The rebellion failed and Daskaloyiannis was forced to surrender to the Turks, who made an example of him by flaying him alive in Heraklion.
From Anopoli you can either turn back or continue to Aradaina and the gorge of the same name. If you cross the Aradaina gorge you will wind up on Marmara beach, returning either along the coastal path or by boat. This route is quite long and tiring, and recommended only for those who are used to mountain treks.
The Aradaina gorge is also an excellent spot for lovers of extreme sports. If you like bungee jumping, then every Saturday and Sunday in the summer months, you have the chance to enjoy a jump from the Aradaina bridge, a metal bridge built 138 metres over the bottom of the gorge. It is the highest bridge for bungy jumping in Greece and the second highest in Europe. Loutro, dining and entertainment Start with a delicious meal at one of the many tavernas available in Loutro. There are tavernas serving cooked dishes, at least two grills with tasty local meat on the coals, and you may even get fresh fish if you’re lucky. Whatever you choose, don’t forget to try traditional Greek specialities and especially Chania dishes, such as boureki and Sfakianes pites (sweet cheese pies). After supper there are two café-bars, but don’t expect the place to be swinging nightclub-style. Loutro is a quiet place and we hope it will remain so for many years to come. What could be more pleasant than sitting right next to the sea, enjoying your drink with good music in the background and letting your gaze lose itself in the moonlit reflections on the mirror-like sea?
Practical information on Loutro 1. The only facilities available in Loutro are a few minimarkets. There is no chemist’s, no rural doctor’s surgery and no cash machine. Be prepared and bring the basics. 2. Camping and topless bathing are not allowed at Loutro. If you want to get more of your clothes off, go to Glyka Nera beach. Spear fishing isn’t allowed either. 3. The boat from Sfakia continues to Agia Roumeli, where you can visit the exit of the Samaria Gorge, along the so-called “lazy way”. In fact you will be walking along the flat part of the gorge from the exit to its narrowest point, the famous Sideroportes (Iron Gates). The round trip takes about 2-3 hours. 4. Loutro is usually crowded in August, so it’ll be more enjoyable if you pick a different month. 5. A different entertainment option is a boat trip to admire the sunset over the sea, and maybe even see dolphins if you’re lucky.
Sfakia, in the southwest of Crete, is the famous and most authentic region of Crete. Here you can find the last pieces of the old Cretan culture and nature, far away from mass tourism. Whether you are looking for the nice and quiet, on the natural beaches, or want to be active, with mountain hiking, swimming, diving and fishing: this is THE place! By the way, did you know Sfakia is Europe's southernmost part?
Nowadays Crete's main businesses are olive oil, wine and tourism. The latter is mainly centered along the North coast. The South West is sheltered from the masses by huge mountain ranges of over 2500 metres high. Only a few roads go south. There you arrive in a better climate region, even better than the Mediterranean climate! Since the mountains appear to sink directly in the sea, only small locations are suitable for villages. This scales down the possibilities for holiday resorts. Since Sfakia is quite remote, also the culture of their inhabitants is less business focused. Hospitality is still an art over here, with good tavernas, fresh fish and meat and very fair prices. The drinking water is mineral water from wells deep into the mountains. The natural beaches are wells of mountain rivers, with sweet water mixing with the sea. The best and most clear swimming water is here.
The hills and mountains are crossed by huge gorges; Sfakia's Samaria gorge is the biggest of Europe, but there are many more and all can be walked fairly easily. A ferry is connecting the villages along the South West coast; there is no noisy ongoing road. Directly from your hotel in Chora Sfakion, the small capital of Sfakia, you can start your daily programme: the beaches are only 25 meters away, more than 20 hiking routes start from here, all ferries come to Chora Sfakion and there is a good bus connection to the East and the North, by renovated 2 lane streets. You can also rent a car to explore the region, with its many small traditional villages.
In the evenings you have a choice of fine restaurants and tavernas, with local dishes of fresh fish, lobster, lam and goat or more international dishes. The Cretan wine is excellent and so is the olive oil and the Raki or Tsikoudia, as they call it: a tasty spirit made from the remains of the wine production. The Sfakians like to join you at your table and tell their stories or listen to yours. For disco and night clubs you have chosen the wrong place.
When you arrive by plane on Crete, you have the choice of 2 airports: Heraklion and Chania. If you have the chance, take Chania. This one is far more close to Sfakia, but even more important: it's small and quiet: check out is very quick and outside you can take the local bus, a pre-ordered taxi from Sfakia or rent a car. A one-and-a half hour's drive through the impressive White Mountains range down south brings you to paradise!
I'm a retired man, now living in Crete. I choose Chania Crete because is a peaceful place, unique for people that wants culture, good food, sea and mountains, happy people to speak with ....
Much fanciful nonsense has been written suggesting that the distinctiveness of the Sfakian dialect of Greek is due to the preservation in the region of 'pure' Dorian Greek as this was brought to Crete 3000 years ago. It is certainly true that the dialect of the Sfakia region is in a number of ways different from the other dialects of Crete. But the reality is that its distinctiveness is due to the relative isolation of the area in much more recent times.
